Rafah Writings

By Joe Carr

 

Joe kept this email diary while he coordinated for the International Solidarity Movement during January to April of 2003 in Rafah, the southern-most city of the Gaza Strip.

 

Pieces on Rachel Corrie

Pieces on Tom Hurndall

 

 

1/16/2003

Hello! Greetings from Palestine!

My flight went smoothly. I had a wonderful day in Amsterdam, though quite cold, and was then off to Israel. It was a bit of a game getting past Israeli security, but they bought my story as a Christian tourist.

I got in late Saturday night and stayed at a hostel in East Jerusalem for 20 shekels (bout 4 dollars) and spent all day Sunday in training. The training was great, they taught us a lot about non-violent resistance and de-escalation tactics, as well as many tips about the culture.  Our trainer was a lovely old man named Art, who’s worked for several years with the Christian Peacemakers Team (CPT) in Hebron.

I decided to do my work in the town of Rafah at the most southern point of the Gaza Strip, right on the Egyptian Border. This town is one of the hardest hit. Israel has turned it into a giant prison, with the Mediterranean to the west, a giant steal wall to the south and east, and a closed checkpoint to the north. The wall is still under construction, right now they have a temporary wall made of concrete about 6 meters high, but the real wall is solid steal going 8 meters underground and 12 meters up, 20 feet in all. In order for the Israeli military to build this apartheid wall safely, they felt they had to fully clear the area about 70 meters away from the wall. To do this, they had to demolish houses in which many Palestinians lived. Sometimes soldiers enter the house with guns and force everyone out; sometimes they use bullhorns to order the evacuation; sometimes they just use explosives with people inside, resulting in many deaths and injuries; sometimes they shower the house with bullets for weeks, until the family finally moves out and army bulldozers can destroy it with ease. 

Now that nearly 800 houses have been demolished, they petrol the border with tanks, driving up and down the border on the Rafah side of the wall all day and night, randomly shooting at anything and everything. Sometimes they use sniper fire to target individual people who happen to be walking around near windows or on the street, but mostly they just blanket fire into houses within a kilometer of the border. This too has resulted in much death, injury, and daily terror for thousands of people. This is not propaganda, this is not some scary futuristic totalitarian regime, I see this with my own eyes, and hear these people's stories with my own ears.

The International Solidarity Movement (ISM), the organization with which I am working, brings internationals to the Palestinian territories that are under Israeli occupation and attack in order to help de-escalate the situation, keep peace and inevitably save lives and empower these brutally oppressed people.

In Gaza, they have taken part in many actions to oppose the demolition of houses and the building of this wall. They stand in front of bulldozers (you should see these army-green tank-like armored bulldozers and other construction equipment) and physically occupy areas necessary to build the wall. They have been successful in delaying demolition and buying more time for the people to gather their belongings and get out safely.

The current campaign on which I am working involves tents. We set up large tents in places that were being hardest hit by gunfire, with big banners that say "Unarmed Internationals" and "Peace" etc. The Israelis will not shoot us like they will the Palestinians, both because they fear the international outcry it would raise and because in their racist minds we are considered fully human.

So I basically sit and sleep in the tent, and if they start shooting I go out and put myself between them and the Palestinians (often children who are playing in the street) and let the soldiers know that I am watching them. It is dangerous, but not anywhere near as much as it would be for the Palestinians if I weren’t there. There has been a remarkable decrease in fire since we gained a visible presence. The people are incredibly appreciative.

These people, are the most kind and hospitable people one could ever imagine. I cannot go anywhere in the town without being constantly invited into houses and shops to talk, drink tea, and eat eat eat. I eat about 4 meals a day if I'm lucky. This culture prides itself on its hospitality, and consider it an honor to serve guests in their house. It would be offensive for us to deny any offer, so eat and eat and eat we must. Despite the lavish service they provide us, these people are incredibly poor. They cannot really afford to give us the things that they do, but there's no way we can refuse.

The food is phenomenal, the best falafel ever, and other yummy herbs breaded and deep fried. Delusions homemade pieta bread (khobis in Arabic) at every meal, I'm often given it fresh out of the homemade clay oven. Incredible humus, and other wonderful combinations of greens and beans and sauces. The best olive oil, olives, and pickled goodies. And you'll be glad to know mom, that almost every meal incorporates some kind of raw element, cucumbers, carrots, and other greens I've never seen before. When walking in the street I'm often given fresh fruit or a cucumber to eat or put in my pocket, as well all kinds of different candy. I usually save it for the kids.

Many people speak English to some degree. Some incredibly good, some only a few words here and there, but we communicate pretty well with sign language and the few words I know in Arabic. I learn more every day though, so by the end of the month I should have a decent vocabulary. They are all willing to teach. I have gotten many incredible stories already, and I'm sure I'll get many more. People are anxious to share, and especially want people in America to know what the US government is so actively funding and supporting.

My guitar has been popular, they often make me play them songs, and sometimes pick at it in their own way. I have written some songs using a few catchy Arabic phrases I have learned, but I hope to learn some traditional Palestinian songs.

I am seriously considering canceling, or at least delaying my trip to Europe. How could I justify lackadaisically backpacking around Europe when these people are being shelled and shot at on a daily basis? My Israeli visa expires in 3 months, so if I leave then it would still allow me a month and a half for Europe, a shorter trip but plenty I think. I will continue to think about it.

I have a cell phone with me at all times, if you would like to call me, the number is 067-390891. You'll have to ask my mom what you need to dial first in order to call it, and I guess it’s rather expensive.

I love you all and am thinking of you constantly. Please think of and pray for me and for these people, I will share many pictures and stories when I return in June.

love and solidarity

-joe


1/24/2003

Each step I took hurt more than the last, for each one took me farther away
from the scene. Death, destruction, and disaster, and all I could do was run.
Told by the armed resistance to leave, begged by my conscience to stay. I
felt such a strong need to remain in solidarity, and risk my life like they
are forced to risk there's, but I was told I was not welcome and would be in
the way. Sitting in the other tent, a kilometer away from the invasion,
filled me with frustration and helplessness as I heard the bangs and crashes
of gun battles and explosions.
            I was there when it began. I was sitting with local Palestinians around a
fire made in a metal drum, playing guitar and ignoring the usual sound of
passing tanks. The power had gone out an hour earlier, a warning we all
somehow failed to heed. When the bulldozer pulled off its main course and
onto the street, I knew something was happening. My first thought (quite
arrogant actually) was that they were going after the tent because they knew
we weren't in it. It was too dangerous to run try and enter it now, as the fear-filled
soldiers would shoot at any figure moving in the darkness. Closely
following the bulldozer were two tanks. The Palestinians and I fell back and watched from
around a corner, as the bulldozer bypassed the tent and pulled onto the
street right next to where we had been sitting. They've come for these
houses I thought. Most of the families that I have befriended and have been
taking care of me live in houses that are eventually to be demolished. Can
you imagine the day to day discomfort and fear that these people live
in, knowing that any night they could be awoke by gunfire and explosions,
and only hope that the military warns them before dynamiting th
eir house?
As the bulldozers and tanks came even closer, we were forced to fall back again.
This time we met the Palestinian armed resistance. I've never felt an
admiration and connection to any group of armed individuals like I do the
Palestinian police, military, and paramilitary groups. Never before have I been in a situation
where I felt that violence was justified, but these people live with a
for
eign military occupying their land, and I now believe that they have a
right to resist this presence by any means necessary. If a soldier came to
kill my children and demolish my house, I think I would damn-well shoot at
him.
            As depressing as it felt, it was probably good that we weren't in the tents,
as we would have been trapped there with no light, only to watch the
senseless violence, and create a serious problem for the resistance who
wouldn't want to accidentally shoot us.  I understood the frustration and
anger of the armed Palestinians towards us. We were white-faced English speakers, the suit of th
eir
western oppressor, and at a time like that it makes sense that they would
lash out. Plus, we had failed. It was clear that we couldn't prevent anything, all we were was
in the way, so we had to step out and let them do th
eir work.

We found the other half of our group back at the other tent, and we all
agreed that there was nothing for us to do but sleep and inspect the damage
in the morning. We had two hostile Israeli tanks nearby, and we decided to use
candles to go out and demonstrate our presence. They didn't like this vigil,
and they made that clear with gunfire, but eventually they stopped shooting into the
air, and went back to ignoring us, and we went back to the tent and slept in
shifts to make sure we were ready if anything happened.
            This morning we documented the destruction. They drove around the streets in
the area firing into homes and shelling buildings. So much damage. They used
dynamite on th
eir current houses of choice, and left a crater about 5 meters wide and 7 meters deep where the house once was.  We’d heard the explosion and it was unimaginable, I cannot believe the firepower they put into
destroying everything these families had.
            It was only a matter of time before something like this happened, I guess the Palestinians are used to this incursions like this, in fact this one was kind of small.  I can't
believe we weren't more prepared for it, with equipment and contingency
plans, banners, a megaphone and flood lights to make our presence more
obvious, and thus safer to move around and even get in th
eir way. We are
already preparing ourselves as such, and are seeking dialogue with the armed
resistance to make sure that we will never be in th
eir way or caught in the
crossfire.
            The action the press release below speaks about is not in direct response to
the invasion, the action had been planned for several days. It's a
semi-dangerous action, as it is in the view of a security tower and several
Israeli military bases. It’s the first "direct action" I'll participate in,
that is doing something that is more than a symbolic statement and actually
changes something. It's an action the Palestinian hospital asked us to do,
and we always prefer to take part in things that are Palestinian-initiated.
It'll be a good day’s work with shovels and pick axes, but we should get a
lot of media.
            Below is the press release for both events, and gives a more objective and
detailed version of the story.
            We have been meeting with the local community a lot, laying the seeds for
a potential spring tent campaign along the border.  We have regular meetings with community members and leaders about possible actions and service projects we could undertake in th
eir respective area. We'll be doing
everything from street cleaning to fixing roof-top water tanks damaged by
Israeli blanket fire. We may help build a children's playground, and we are
frequently asked to stand in front of utility workers whenever they have a
job near the boarder and the guns of Israeli tanks. This work is incredibly
fulfilling, and really what I came here to do. I am also getting lots of
great interviews, people are so eager to share th
eir phenomenal stories.
            A few excelent things I forgot to mention about the food. It’s all eaten communally,
that is no individual plates or forks. It’s served in bowls and dishes sat in the
middle of everyone and is eaten with pieta bread, by dipping and scooping.
            The Palestinian people are more warm that one could ever imagine, and I feel
more welcome than I ever have in my life. The children on the street can be
rather overwhelming at times, they all want to test out th
eir new English and
get a close look at the strange animals. Some ask for money, but most just
say "how are you" or "what’s your name" in th
eir cute Arabic accent.  Many have before never seen a foreigner in real life, only on TV and in movies.  Some don’t understand why we’re there, and associate us with Israel and their oppressor and respond with hostility.  It’s never too bad, but the rock throwing can be a little much at times.  Their poverty has turned them into talented little pickpockets as well, I have to watch my stuff as I have lost things already.
            Families here are huge, people are so surprised that I only have one sister, and
that I'm not married yet. They love fires and tea, and can never get enough
of my guitar.
            Though it’s frustrating and stressful at times, I truly love it here, and
have almost completely decided to stay until my visa expires in 3 months.
I'm thinking of you all and can't wait to hear from you.
much love and solidarity
-joe



2/1/2003

Operation Antigone

Today, our schedule was quickly interrupted with the report of a man who'd been shot and killed at the Israel/Egypt checkpoint in southern Rafah at 2am last night.  His body had yet to be retrieved. Israel refused to allow any Palestinian to go anywhere near the body which was out in an olive grove that is now technically a "Closed Military Zone". We five internationals got a stretcher, some banners and a megaphone, and set out for what we thought would be a simple operation.  We had no idea how important it was to the Israeli soldiers that we did not go near this body.

We got about half way there, explaining our mission with the megaphone, when they started shooting from a security tower in the checkpoint compound.  The bullets were landing within a few meters of us. They ordered us to stop or be shot. We stopped and negotiations began with megaphones. They went nowhere however, because we both stuck to our hard-line stances; we refused to leave without the body, and they declared we would be shot if we went near it. One soldier said, "If you don't stop, you will join your friend." They claimed that there was a bomb on the body, so I guess it was for our safety that they threatened to kill us. During this "conversation", a tank and a bulldozer appeared out of the compound and headed for the area. We tried to advance again, but this time were shot at by the tank, and the negotiating activist got hit in the leg by a bullet shrapnel fragment and now has a nasty bruise. They proceeded to bulldoze a mound of earth over what we thought was the body, and then shot into the pile, perhaps in attempts to detonate a potential explosive. We did see one small explosion, but we think it was from a tank projectile. Then the tank blew lots of masking smoke and soldiers got out and did something. Right after they left, there was a slightly bigger explosion on the mound. During this operation, neither the tank nor the tower would talk to us with anything other than bullets.

After the second explosion, the bulldozer proceeded to level the entire olive grove, and then left. The tank rolled out of the way, and we saw that the body was still there, and had not been buried or even touched by the bulldozer. We put on rubber gloves, and proceeded to load the body onto the stretcher, and carried it back to the Palestinians waiting nearby.

I've never actually seen a dead body before. It was a greenish color, and was covered in blood from head and abdomen wounds. He was quite dirty but was in tact. We were heroes to the Palestinians, and left with a sense that we had truly accomplished something.

This was the first time though that I thought they may actually shoot us. It was scary, but I knew that I would not be killed, only wounded, and could make international media and get to go home relieved of this responsibility (not that I don't want to be here). And I could join the ranks of the Palestinian Shahid Allie (living martyr), nearly every boy and man here has a gunshot wound somewhere, and nearly everyone has lost a family member to Israeli violence.

 Operation Antigone actually happened right after we stood in front of some water municipality workers who needed to do work near the dangerous border. This is more representative of the type of work we do on a day to day basis, like yesterday I helped some men build an additional room onto the top of their house. Roofs are dangerous because towers and tanks can shoot people easier, many Palestinians have been killed while adjusting their satellite dishes or repairing their shot-up water tank.

Tonight we will continue our save-Rafah-water campaign. Two nights ago, the Israeli army bulldozed Rafah's two main water wells, taking out half of Rafah's water supply.  We believe they did this as an act of terror, but also to provide more fresh water for the nearby Israeli Settlement.  It will take several weeks and cost hundreds of thousands of dollars to repair the wells, so until they’re finished we are sleeping in the other main well that could be targeted, prepared to stand/sit in front of any bulldozer that thinks it’s going to destroy it. This action is potentially arrestable, as the well is out far away from buildings where resistance fighters can hide, so soldiers won't be as afraid of leaving their tanks to arrest us. But we are prepared, and feel that it is a worthy enough cause to risk it.

You are all in my thoughts, and I'm comforted to know that I am in your prayers.

love and solidarity

-joe


2/3/2003

Disclaimer

So, I realized that my emails have made the situation here sound a lot worse than it really is. I was overcome by the desires of Palestinians for me to tell America what is being done to them, and therefore was highlighting the horrendous of the situation for them, but in the process made it sound like it was horribly unsafe for me. This is really not the case. The dangerous actions I've written you about are a rarity, and it is unfortunate that I have neglected to tell you about our safer and more meager day to day activity which is far more important.

The vast majority of our time is spent talking and socializing with Palestinians. Drinking tea, eating delusions food, and hearing incredible stories from a people who so desperately need the world to listen. I've administered several formal interviews (tape recorder) already, and have many more set up.

We also spend time documenting recent atrocities. Whenever houses are demolished, people are killed, or infrastructure is attacked, we show up and take pictures, do interviews, and attempt to record the disaster so we can keep track of the violence of Israeli oppression.

We have also been meeting with loads of Palestinian organizations and individuals, building many contacts and becoming involved in many projects. For instance, we are currently planning and scouting the building of a children’s playground in the center of town. We are working on the funding for supplies and land, and are addressing the need in each area of town and what kids actually want.

We are also planning for a "Clean-up Rafah" campaign, which some of you already know about. A local organization has offered to provide brooms, trash-cans, paint, plants, and other supplies, and there is no shortage of labor. Unemployment is the second biggest problem in Rafah (Israeli violence is the first). We would like to pay Palestinians for a day or two to help clean up their town, and make their city a more respectable and inhabitable place to live. All we have to do is come up with the money with which to pay them, a not so easy task. So we've been asked to ask our friends and family in our own countries if they could help organize fundraisers for this project. If any of you are interested, or know some person or organization that might be, please have them email me and we can work out the details.

Aside from these larger projects, we have also been active in helping individuals with house projects that may be dangerous for them to do alone. For instance, any kind of roof work can be lethal, as Israeli towers and tanks like to fire upon any figure in obvious view. So we help repair water tanks damaged from gunfire or otherwise, help adjust satellite dishes, and even help build additional rooms onto houses.

We have also developed a relationship with the water and electricity municipality. Whenever they have work to do near the boarder, we accompany them and try to provide some protection. We try to place ourselves between the workers and the Israeli gun barrels, and use banners, megaphones, and our embassies to make our presence known.  There are water and electricity problems that have needed repair for years but were too dangerous to accomplish.  Thanks to our protection several areas of Rafah now have better services.

We also work with ambulances, in fact this is the only way we see that we can be affective during a large-scale invasion or attack. When one occurs, we are on call to accompany ambulances into a dangerous area. Israel has been known to shoot at ambulances, in fact numerous paramedics have been killed and wounded trying to rescue injured individuals. We use a megaphone, banners, and bright lights to alert the military of our presence, and usually the ambulances are allowed in and out peacefully.

The fact that they will not shoot us is soul-reason our presence is effective, so you all needn't worry about that. No ISMer has ever been killed, in fact the only international killed in recent years was that UN guy in Jenin, and it made huge headlines all over the world and embarrassed the crap out of Israel, so you can bet they won't make that mistake again. They did shoot one activist in the leg over a year ago, and this is a small danger during our more intense actions, but it is still an incredible rarity. In the last two years, out of the hundreds of ISM internationals taking direct action to resist Israeli occupation, only one has been wounded by gunfire.

So, I understand all your worries, and I think of you lots, but please understand that my work here is incredibly important and effective, and that the real danger is for them and not for me. Indeed, in many cases they would be in far more danger if it weren't for my presence.

I love you all and think of you constantly. I appreciate your prayers, and ask that they be extended to all of the people here.

love, solidarity, and safety

-joe


2/11/2003

Tas been a restful last few days.

I ended up leaving directly from a Rehabilitation Clinic in Gaza City we’d been protecting and going to Bethlehem. There was a meeting scheduled last minute. It was a "core-group meeting", consisting of ISMers from all over Palestine who are going to be here for 3 months or more. Since I qualify, and since Rafah has never been represented at these meetings before, I decided to attend.

It was a grueling 9-hour meeting that covered little, full of highly opinionated and long-winded international and Palestinian activists. I've been assured that it was the worst, and that future meetings will be much better. We shall see.

Bethlehem was incredible though. I've never been to a place that old. The ground and the buildings, all the ancient and partially decaying stone, reeks of thousands of years of inhabitance. When we arrived there, the soldiers almost didn't let us in because the city was under "curfew", which means no one is allowed to leave their homes, a common tactic of Israeli oppression. But we managed to convince them, and were just given a stern warning to watch our wallets. We thanked the racist soldier and proceeded into the city. Many people defy the curfew, so we had no problem finding our way around. We met a 70-year old Catholic woman who's lived in the city for over 50 years, and she mostly spoke English. She was a bit senile, but knew her city, and told us all about it. She showed us the places that Jesus walked regularly, and brought us to the Church of the Nativity, which marks the spot where he was born. A gorgeous, incredibly old church, with an indescribable spiritual presence. Later, I was taken to a well that the Virgin Mary in known to have drank at, supposedly her spirit appeared there at some point in the 70s. It really put things into perspective for me, coming from a country that is only a little over 200 years old.

After the meeting was finally over, a fellow activist and I headed back to Rafah, only to get stuck in Gaza City again. Israel closed the Abu Gholi checkpoint after a van bomb wounded 4 soldiers earlier that morning.

We finally got back to Rafah yesterday morning, just in time for the Eid celebration to begin. Eid is the Muslim holiday that commemorates when Abraham almost sacrificed his son to God, only to be stopped by an angel. In the Muslim tradition, God sent 2 large bulls to be sacrificed instead, so every year on this day, every 7 families go in together and buy a huge bull, slaughter it, and then divide up the meat. So last night there were bulls tied to posts outside houses, one every 50 meters or so, and this morning starting at 6am, the men slaughtered them right in the street. Many children gather around to watch, and the streets are soaked with blood and cow parts. We will be expected to eat it tonight, quite the nightmare for our strict vegetarians and vegans. I'm glad I've temporarily renounced my restrictive diet so that I can partake in the ritual. I got some pictures of the more beautiful animals, but avoided gory shots of the killing. The holiday is one week long, so there will be feasting through the weekend, and our regular work of helping the water department and meeting with community organizations will be interrupted for some much needed social time. As long as the Israeli Army doesn't decided to be too aggressive, it should be a quiet week.

Earlier today Israel was blowing up some underground tunnels used for people, consumer goods and arms smuggling from Egypt. I thought of you dad, they had these huge armored drills, which they use to place explosives in the ground and then detonate them. The whole ground shakes like an earthquake, quite obnoxious.

I send you all much love and feasting.

in peace and solidarity

-joe

 


14 February, 2003 1:30pm Rafah

We get a call that there are houses being demolished in Block O, one of Rafah's many refugee camps. Usually this work is done at night so it's too dangerous for us to do anything, but when it happens in daylight we like to try. There were 7 of us internationals, equipped with two video cameras, a megaphone, and an array of still cameras and banners. There were two bulldozers going to work on now uninhabited houses, some already partially destroyed, that were right along the front line next to the newly constructed steel wall. We were in the view of 4 Israeli towers, and one tank patrolling the area. We approached the operation through what used to be farm land, displaying our banners and shouting through our megaphone "We are unarmed, international, human rights observers" and the like. Very slowly, we drew nearer to one of the bulldozers, who seemed to be ignoring us. Once it pulled back a bit to have another go at the building, one other activist and I jumped down into the way of the bulldozer, between it and the house on which it was working. It had already destroyed half of it, so we were standing inside the decrepit house. The bulldozer withdrew and the tank approached. We stared at each other for awhile, and then the tank withdrew and the bulldozer returned. By this time the rest of the internationals had joined us in the house. The door of the bulldozer opened, and out came a percussion grenade, designed to send a loud resonating boom. Though it really wasn't that much louder than gunfire, which we've all gotten used to by now. Then the bulldozer decided to resume work, despite the fact that we were standing there. It was a game of chicken, and the bulldozer won. We had the choice of moving back, being buried by rubble, or climbing onto the bulldozer. We were not prepared for the latter two options so we moved. Some evacuated the building quickly, but another activist and I were trapped into one corner. We tried again to get in the dozer's way, but it was clear that it didn't care, and would injure, or possibly kill us if we didn't move. We were afraid that one of the inner walls would fall on us, so we evacuated as soon as the bulldozer withdrew again. We stood near by for awhile, watching and trying to decide what to do. The tank drove up onto some rubble and gained and elevated position, and began shooting into houses surrounding the area, especially in areas where they saw movement, but at no point did it fire at us. They especially targeted the house from which we had come, and we decided that we should try and protect the houses from gunfire, as we were clearly useless at protecting them from destruction. We moved back and in front of the targeted houses, and continued to wait, until a few young men began throwing homemade pipe-bombs at the tanks. We withdrew quickly, and waited for the operation to finish. The pipe-bombs were as ineffective as our action, the Israeli Destruction Force continued until they'd destroyed 5 houses. They finished in less than an hour and withdrew. Immediately the area was flooded with Palestinians, especially children, observing the rubble, playing on the mounds, and gathering what few useful items were left. I began to help gather wood, as it gets cold here at night and people always have fires. Many rely on the hot coals to heat their houses all night. It felt incredibly pathetic, that all I could do was gather wood from the rubble of what used to be the homes of families, many of which were forced here from their homes in Israel after 1949. Some have had to relocated several times, as Israel continues to "acquire" their land and destroy their homes. Now they're even attacking the refugee camps, how many times must these people be victims of Israeli aggression?


February 15, 2003 Rafah

We had a small demonstration in support of the people of Iraq today. It was an international day of action, with huge demos all over the world. We heard that the one scheduled for New York had been deemed illegal, so we held a sign that said "Rafah Against Political Repression in New York". We also had signs from our respective cities, saying we were against the war. I held one for Kansas City, MO, USA, my home town. There were many Palestinians, lots of children, a fair amount of media and a great deal of Israeli and US flag burning. It was cut short by rain, but it was nice to be in sync with people all over the world, even for a little bit.

            I am quite afraid of what is going to happen in the case of an Iraq war. I think that Sharon will use it as an excuse to crack down on the West Bank and Gaza, but especially here in the Gaza Strip, where a full invasion is possible. We are trying to prepare for it, brainstorming various contingency plans, and making "activist kits" containing a banner, a flashlight, and basic medical supplies which we will always carry. The Israeli Army will face quite the battle, as the armed resistance here is incredibly strong, so we will have to be very careful with our actions. All of you should pray that some miraculous thing prevents the Iraq war, or that at least Israel doesn't try and invade Rafah or any part of the Gaza Strip.

It has been confirmed that the resistance blew up a tank in southern Gaza today, killing 4 Israeli soldiers. It is always difficult for me to rejoice about death, however I must say I always experience a feeling of joy when I hear of a victory for the resistance, seeing as I believe that they are right and I've seen them lose so many times. The 4 soldiers in no way make up for the hundreds of children Israel is killing, but I feel that it is good for Israel to know that they cannot oppress these people without risking something.

This is a difficult conflict, which can be quickly oversimplified when I'm surrounded by one side. Objectivity is rather hard when I'm surrounded by Israeli tanks shooting at children and destroying the homes of families.

-joe


2/23/2003

Stuck in Gaza City again, as the Abu Gholi checkpoint is randomly closed. This is starting to be a theme after core-group meetings; we go and then get stuck for a night on the way back.

I'll tell you a little bit about ISM structure. There are four, independent, autonomous groups working in Palestinian cities and villages, currently Nablus, Jenin, Tulkurum/Qualkilia, and Rafah. There are "long-termers" in each area, that is activists who are committed to staying for 3 months or more, including Palestinian organizers that will be there forever. Long-term organizers are called "coordinators", and they work to maintain relationships with local organizations, and generally keep things running smoothly in each area, as internationals come and go every few weeks. These long-term coordinators try to come together once a month for a "core-group meeting", at which consensus decisions are made that effect the whole of ISM Palestine. These decisions are things like media, training, money, and coordinated campaigns. Most decisions, however, are made at the local level by the activists working there, including those who may only be there for a week or two. Everything is done by consensus; that is, proposals are discussed and changed until absolutely everyone agrees.

I have become a coordinator of sorts for Rafah, as I will be there for 3 months and they were desperately in need of coordination. I am one of 4 people filling this role in Rafah, two of which are Palestinians. The core-group meetings are horribly long; this last one went for 12 hours, and not all that much was decided. And they are rather difficult for us to get to, especially because we're afraid that at some point we'll leave, and then they'll seal off Gaza and we'll be unable to return. Hopefully this won't happen, but if it does I'd rather be stuck in Rafah then out.

At least the core-group meetings take place in Bethlehem. Strolling around the incredibly old and gorgeous city is a nice break from the rigorous meetings. I got to explore more fully the Church of the Nativity, on the site where Jesus is believed to have been born. It’s a huge gorgeous stone structure, the doors to which are only about 5' tall. It’s been turned into a religious museum of sorts for Christian relics, with incredibly ornate alters, statues, paintings, and other random things like candle holders, etc. There's a huge sanctuary for praying and regular services, which was full of people from all over the world, praying in many different languages. The place was phenomenally holy, and I was filled with reverence. The sanctuary is bordered by 3-D representations of the Stations of the Cross. Truly the coolest church I've ever seen.

Later I got to go to Jerusalem, and met up with Shannon's best friend and my dear friend Laura who's currently living in Israel for the past few months. I haven’t seen her since the summer so it was fabulous to finally meet up with her. She showed me around West Jerusalem, which looks like America only everything's made out of this white stone, an actual legal mandate, and the letters are boxy. It’s the same consumer culture and diversity of people and styles. It's generally referred to as the "New City".

Then we went to the “Old City”, in East Jerusalem, which is the original Jerusalem, thousands of years old. It’s current construction is only 500 years old or so however, but it’s still surrounded by a huge wall, many stones of which are larger than me and Laura combined. They say the biggest stones in the city are several times the size of the largest Egyptian Pyramid stones. Wow. I'd seen most of the Arab and Jewish quarter of the city all ready, just a ton of shops and homes, but Laura brought me to more of the relic/holy spots. She introduced me to The Western Wall, or "Wailing Wall", which was definitely the holiest place I've ever been in my life. It's a huge wall, like 60 feet tall, though they say 2/3 of it is under ground. It was lined with Orthodox Jews reading prayers. Unfortunately, its divided by gender, and the women are only allowed like a third of what the men have, and women aren't allowed to pray outloud. I just kind of sat and looked at the thing for awhile, and then approached it and pressed my head and hands against the cool stones. Prayer overcame me, I began begging the wall for peace, for reconciliation for these two peoples. For both sides to put down their weapons and embrace, and then go back to the lives they all really just want to peacefully live.

It was very good for me to see mainland Israel. One side has consumed me, and that's never good for one's soul. Like many Palestinians, I had yet to see an Israeli citizen without a gun; in fact, I'd seen few outside of a tank. They are an incredible people, at least the ones Laura introduced me to and the two I met on the street. They have a warmth and love that is unmatched by any other country I've been in, and seem to have a phenomenal affection for each other, and a love for this country that is beyond any form of nationalism. They, like the Palestinians, just want peace, and believe that they must defend themselves in order to get it. I find it fascinating that in both cultures and languages, the most common greeting is "Peace". Shalom in Israel, and Salaam in Palestine. How tragic that two cultures that value peace so heavily, believe they must resort to such a bloody means of achieving it.

I have made some mistakes in the way I've thought about elements of this conflict, especially those regarding the Palestinian armed resistance. I understand why I had the reactions I did, and I think they were natural and important to my process, but I have been helped to see the error of my ways. Death and violence are never to be glorified, celebrated, or enjoyed. Unfortunately, sometimes violence may be justified, and even necessary, but it is never good, it is tragic that it sometimes has to happen. I believe that violence is damaging to both parties involved, the giver and the receiver, and it hurts me to see these two people doing so much damage to their collective souls.

I have made a commitment to do peace work in Israel for a month or so after I finish my 3 months in Palestine. I think it is essential to my personal understanding of the conflict, and to my ability to do dialogue work between the two peoples in the future.  When the political conditions are finally favorable enough to make that dialogue possible, I plan to return to this place and do mediation work. Until then, I will continue to work towards these conditions. I believe that the ball is in Israel's court, as they are the clear institutionally violent aggressors, regardless of what the soldiers are brainwashed to believe. I will resist the Israeli occupation, as the Palestinians can never have dialogue with an occupying military power that is systematically oppressing them. Israelis can never have dialogue with a people their military is continually de-humanizing and whom they believe are only out to kill them. I believe that the work I do is in the best interest of the Palestinians and the Israelis. I will never do work that isn't.

Well, that's enough ranting for now. It has been requested that I focus more on what I'm thinking and feeling about everything and not just the super-hero stories of glamorous actions and events, or horror stories of tragic atrocities. Feel free to give me any feedback on my analysis or how I'm describing my activities here.

in love and solidarity

-joe


March 3, 2003 Khanunis, Gaza Strip

I just got back from Khanunis, a medium-sized city just north of Rafah. I was taken there by the Rafah field worker for the Al Mezan Center for Human Rights . The destruction was devastating; it was like a microcosm of the world trade center in New York. Here’s what happened:

It all started in the afternoon of March 1st. At 3pm, Juda Neim Darwish, a 12-year-old girl was shot in the head while sitting in class. She attends School B, in Khanunis’s refugee camp on the western side of town, very near to the perimeter of the Israeli settlements. She is now in critical condition, and it was the start of what was to be a very horrific night for the people in this camp.

A seven-story building, housing 6 families, was the tallest building in the refugee camp. It apparently made the close-by Israeli military bases uncomfortable, as it blocked some of their view, and didn’t allow them to fully see into the camp. Its height also threatened the Israeli settlements, as projectiles could perhaps be shot from the elevated position. The Israeli bases frequently shot and shelled the upper floors of the house, making it so dangerous that the families living there had locked the top 3 floors. This was not satisfactory to the security-minded Israeli military, so they decided that the home must be demolished.

At 11pm on March 1st, 13 tanks, 5 bulldozers, several jeeps and a couple Apache helicopters invaded the western area of Khanunis, especially the refugee camp. Some of them split off and went to attack Naser Hospital, but I’ll get to that later.

The others focused on this large home. With tons of gunfire and tank shells, they created a “safety perimeter” to allow soldiers to enter the house. They blew open the door of the house with explosives, and shot sound bombs and tear gas into the house. What was left of the family (the young men had evacuated due to fear of arrest), 35 people, 24 of which were children, had already gathered into one central room on the bottom floor, to be safe from the excessive gunfire and shelling. Around 10 soldiers then entered the dark house (the power had been cut earlier) with faces painted, several police dogs, and lights attached to their guns. They barked orders in Arabic at the terrified family, “Don’t Move! Tell me who else is in the House!” etc. They explained that the top three floors of the house were to be demolished for security purposes, and that they would not be allowed to remove any belongings. They ordered a small child, 7-year-old Hanin, to place “candles” in each of the flats on the 3rd floor. These “candles” were clearly some kind of explosive, and the soldiers were too afraid to go into the upper rooms, as they would be vulnerable to attack by hiding resistance fighters. The child placed them in two of the flats, but then became too afraid and just left the rest on the hallway floor.

Satisfied, the soldiers ordered the family out of the house, one by one, refusing them any possessions. The family had much food and goods stored on the first floor to supply their near-by shop, and had many other items of material and sentimental value, such as traditional wedding jewelry, and their identity cards. The soldiers wouldn’t even allow the women to carry milk for their small children. One by one, the Israeli soldiers used the people as human shields to exit the house. Most of the family then fled to neighbors’ houses at least 200 meters away, but one of the men who’d actually stayed, gained permission from the soldiers to warn the surrounding houses. He went around, banging on doors and advising evacuation. He said a tank followed him as he did this, which shot around him from time to time, especially as a family would evacuate in terror. It took them several hours to fully clear the area, and plant the large amount of explosives on the bottom floor of the house. Around 4am, an explosion like few others toppled the large building to the ground, fully destroying it and 5 houses surrounding it, some which were as many as 3 stories tall. Over 30 other houses were damaged, some quite badly, from flying debris and the concussion of the explosion. A near-by mosque had large holes blown in its walls and roof, as did a small elementary school. Today, the families were still trying to dig through the rubble and salvage what little of their possessions they can still find. They had no for-warning about this attack, and dozens of families lost everything they owned.

At the near-by Nasser Hospital, the largest hospital in Khanunis, tanks and bulldozers damaged large sections of the surrounding security wall, and opened fire into the hospital. 3 nurses were injured from gunfire. The tanks, accompanied by an Apache, occupied the area, terrifying the staff and patients, until around 6am.

All in all, the operation left 2 dead and 41 injured from gunfire, tank shells, broken windows, and flying debris; 6 houses, including the entirety of the 7 story “security risk”, were completely destroyed and over 30 houses, a school, and a mosque were badly damaged; around 30 families, roughly 170 people, were left homeless and propertyless.

This story needs no commentary; the facts display the character of the Israeli military well enough.


3/14/2003

No Problem

So, the reason you haven’t heard from me in awhile is because I went to Europe. Yes, a truly American-style one-week Europe trip by plane and car. I met my parents in Amsterdam last Thursday, and then we visited my sister in Gronigen, went as a family down to Freiburg Germany to visit a former foreign exchange student named Stefan, and his wonderful family. Then, we headed to Paris to see Clem, another previous foreign exchange student. Stayed there with her family and saw the sights for 3 days, and then headed back to Amsterdam for a night on the town with my dad, and then a flight home the next day. I am now back in Rafah.

The trip was really nice, so great to see my family, and take a break from the stress of constant obligation, activity, and violence. Europe wasn’t all that, wouldn't have been very cool if it weren't for the wonderful people I was with. So I'm glad I chose to stay here in stead of backpacking. I miss my family already, and am so thankful that I have such enormous privilege, to be able to see them, in Europe, and go back to Palestine/Israel.

Getting out of the airport was a bit stressful. I was smart and had nothing even remotely incriminating on me, and it’s a good thing because they did check every little nook and cranny of every piece of my luggage. They also did a rather thorough physical search, about as thorough as one can get without fully removing clothing. Spent over an hour asking me questions, wanted to know every detail of my trip, down to the prices of things and what street they were on. Fortunately, I was prepared for this, and had used my Lets Go Israel book extensively to memorize this information. If anyone wants to spend a 2 month trip in Israel as a tourist, I have a perfect itinerary laid out.

I "lost" my visa paper, so they didn't see that I'd really spent my two months in the Gaza Strip, fortunately they didn't check on their computer, I assume that it would be registered.

I got out just fine, and then getting in was even easier than last time. They don't usually do physical searches when coming in, which is good cause it would have been difficult for me to explain these really rad florescent orange jackets and coveralls I picked up in Amsterdam, I got 6 sets for 60 bucks, all with awesome reflective stripping, and they look nothing like anything the Palestinians where, so soldiers will be able to see and recognize us even at night now.

They did search just about everyone else on the plane though, somehow I escaped, got my passport and official 3-month visa and cruised to Rafah. Took most of the day, as the busses had ridiculous layovers, but it only cost me like 50 shekels (10 dollars) to get from the airport all the way to Rafah.

So, back to the grindstone. Looks like we have our work cut out for us. The big well is finished and up and running, so we must guard it constantly.  We have erected a tent at the sight and will be sleeping there. We're always planning for a potential Iraq war, I was terrified that it may start before my return and I’d be stuck out.

 

-joe


3/17/2003

Horror and Stress

I have never experienced anything like this in my life. I've never had
someone close to me die before, let alone have them be brutally murdered right in
front of my eyes. I don't even know how to react. I went through stages of
dumbfounded shock and serious crying fits. I had no chance to be alone at
all, I was
either surrounded by Palestinians or on the phone with media. I
chose the latter. I was doing interviews non-stop starting 30 min. after her
death, all the way until midnight, and then starting again at 6am and
continuing all day today. I literally would never hang up the phone, just
switch to an incoming call on call waiting. When I did finally get a second
to breath, I'd have like 30 missed calls. Anyway, it was a bit therapeutic I
think, telling the story over and over, and interviews make me feel
important. All this thing is is a media event now, so we must continue a
campaign as hard as possible before the new and bigger tragedy, the Iraq
war, begins. The few hours I had off interviews last night between midnight
and 4am, was spent organizing today’s events: press conferences, live
TV/radio interviews, a demonstration and the beginnings of the traditional
Palestinian 3-day mourning ceremony. Right now we're preparing for a serious influx of
people from the West Bank and Israel, as well as some people from abroad,
possibly including her family.
            The stress is really getting to me. I couldn't sleep for the 2 hours I was
allowed because my body won't relax. My heart is racing and I shake a lot, and I’m
even having trouble breathing. My jaw is the worst though. It won't loosen to
save my life, and it hurts like hell, especially when I chew (when i get
time to grab a falafel sandwich). I've never experienced physical stress
and tension like this.

We thought this might happen eventually. We often spoke in the abstract that
eventually one of us would get killed, but we always figured they'd shoot
us, or it'd be an "accident", like in a house that is missiled or a stray
bullet would hit an unlucky activist. I never dreamed it'd be like this, the
intentional crushing of a human b
eing. I do believe it was intentional. I
saw it, and I know he saw her, I know he did, and I know he knew she was
still under the bulldozer when it backed up without raising the blade. I
don't know if he wanted to kill her, or if he was just focused on doing his
work and didn't care if he killed her or not, I don't know which is
scarier.

I don't feel like telling the whole detailed story right now. I promise that
for the record I will tell it in detail, but give me a few days. I just
want to quickly dispel a few myths you may have heard in the media.
She did not "trip and fall" in front of the bulldozer. She sat down in front
of it, well in advance, wearing one of the orange flouro jackets I got in
Amsterdam. (by the way, I took the pictures you may have seen of her,
standing with the megaphone in front of the bulldozer, and the ones of her
friends helping her). He clearly saw her, and continued to drive until she
was forced onto the top of the dirt he was pushing, elevating her so much
that she was at eye level with the bulldozer's cab, he could see right into
her eyes. He continued forward, pulling her underneath the dirt, and out of
his vision. He continued forward, crushing her underneath the w
eight of the
blade. He continued forward, until she was well underneath the bulldozer.
It was then quite clear that she was nowhere but underneath him, but he
proceeded to back up, without lifting the blade, crushing her again. I
believe that it was the combination of these two crushings that caused her
death.

She was defending the house of a physician. We've all stayed in the house,
we know that there are no weapons of any kind there, just a middle aged
doctor and his lovely family. They want to demolish it because it happens
to lie near the boarder, and they're systematically demolishing all the
houses near the boarder. It has nothing to do with retaliatory or
preventative operations.

They were not searching for tunnels or bombs either. We know what this looks
like, they do it a lot. It involves armored drills and bomb dogs and shooting
at the ground, none of which was present here. It’s just a further example of
the Israeli military's blatant lies.

There was never any gunfire from any Palestinians, the only gunfire came
from the tank, when it shot at the ground a few times in order to scare us.
But even this was extremely minimal. The Palestinian that was killed was in
a totally separate area of Rafah, and was killed by sniper fire into the
area, not in a gun battle. It is quite unfortu
nate that his death probably
wouldn't even be reported anywhere if it weren't for Rachel.

The Palestinians have been incredible. They are quite used to this, as
thousands of th
eir people have died. Indeed I now know how every Palestinian
family feels, as many of them have lost multiple friends and family to the Israeli
occupation. Th
eir support has been invaluable however, they've gone to full
lengths to give her a proper demonstration and ceremony, like they give
every other Shahid (martyr). They've made a nice poster of her as well,
which will be posted in all of the places she has been, and there's ganna be
a big march and demonstration this afternoon. We're planning actions for
the coming days as well. We're planning to occupy the murder sight, and
line the whole area with flowers, and erect a nice visible memorial as well.

I don't know what this means for us now. It could go one of two ways. It
could make us more effective, because now they know that we are not going to
move, and that we will risk our safety to oppose them. Thus they will be
forced to be more careful, and withdraw sooner. Or, it could mean that they
no longer care, and will willfully kill and injure us without hesitation. This would render us useless as human shields, and our work would be impossible. So we'll have to see. I know we'll be much more careful, and have long talks about tactics, and with what people are still comfortable. I
have a lot of thinking and considering to do. But we're not leaving, that's
for sure. We're dedicated to staying here, especially with the Iraq war and
risk of full invasion of the Gaza Strip.

If any of you heard anything else and have questions, I'd gladly respond to
them. I also encourage you to contact your local media, and tell them that
you know someone who was there and saw it, and who is still there and
willing to give a full interview. Feel free to give them my name and phone
number: Joseph Smith, 972-67-628-507. Please spread the word, it’s all we
can do now.

I'm sure you'll keep me in your thoughts, I need all the energy I can get as
I deal with this trauma. My close friends and family have been wonderful,
and haven’t freaked out on me like I thought they would. But I share th
eir
concern.

Ok, I must go the press conference. Below is an article by my professor from
Evergreen, its a fabulous analysis of Sharon's occupation and his attacks on
innocent civilians.
much love and disparity
-joe


3/20/2003

Full Account

My name is Joseph Smith, I am 21 years old and from Kansas City, Missouri, USA. I have been working with the International Solidarity Movement (ISM) in Rafah for over two months and plan to stay for at least one more. I then plan to do peace work for one month in Israel before returning to the United States. Once home, I will attempt to spread the word about what is happening in Palestine and in Rafah, through speaking tours and media work. I will also be active in organizing demonstrations and other events in attempts to apply pressure and raise awareness about this conflict and other race and war issues. I plan to continue my college education in the fall, as a junior at Grinnell College in Grinnell, IA. I will study history and theatre.

ISM is a Palestinian-lead grassroots organization designed to work with international volunteers to partake in non-violent direct action resistance to the Israeli occupation. We work and live in Palestinian communities, and get a first-hand account of the violence to which they are subjected every day by the Israeli military. We are in solidarity with them, as we share in their suffering and take some of the risks that they are unfortunately forced to live with. It is important for us to show that the world has not forgotten these people, and that individuals from all over the world are willing to interrupt their comfortable lives to come and risk themselves for the sake of Palestinians. Through this work we attempt to make links between Palestine and the outside world. We use our personal contacts, the international media, and our embassies to draw international attention to the Palestinian plight. And we work as observers of the immense human rights violations being committed by Israel, and document these atrocities with established human rights organizations. Indeed, sometimes we are the only internationals present in this area, in fact this is true for Rafah, as international media and UN officials are afraid to live and work here.

I chose to come to Palestine and work with ISM because I felt it was one of the best ways for me to use my privilege as a white middle class American male to directly serve impoverished people of color who are under-privileged due to the Israeli and other Western governments, especially mine. I have dedicated my life to serving such people, as I believe my over-privilege is a direct result of their under-privilege. I have benefited from their suffering, and this must stop.

 

16 March, 2003

11:00-13:00

We were split into two groups, one working as human shields for water workers at the Canada water well in Tele Sultan and the other doing the same for electricity workers in Hay Salaam. It is dangerous for these workers to work near the boarder, as Israeli tanks patrol it and will often shoot at any Palestinian in sight, including civilian workers and playing children.

13:00-13:30

Hay Salaam activists noticed that two Israeli Army bulldozers and one tank have entered onto Palestinian civilian property near the border and are demolishing farmland and other already damaged structures. The military machinery was severely threatening near-by homes, so the 3 activists went up onto the roof of one home, and then called for others to come.

13:30-14:00

I arrived, and one of the three activists in the house joined me on the ground. The bulldozers moved away from the house activists were occupying, so the other two joined us, and we began to disrupt the work of the bulldozers. We moved slowly at first, just standing near to their work, and then sat and stood on a partially built house that looked threatened. One bulldozer began to damage part of the structure on which we were standing, so a Scottish activist began standing and sitting on the edge of the structure, and made it impossible for the bulldozer to work without injuring him. At this point, Rachel and the two other activists joined us from the well, with a banner and a megaphone. Rachel and a British activist were wearing jackets that were fluorescent orange and had reflective stripping.

14:00-15:00

Our press office informed the British and American embassies that Israeli Army bulldozers were behaving aggressively, and were endangering the lives of British and American citizens, but they took no action.

The bulldozer continued to try and further damage the structure and we continued to get in its way. At one point, a concrete pillar almost fell on the Scottish activist, but he moved just in time. We were worried that the two houses behind this structure would be targeted, so we placed one activist on the roof of each house. I went onto the roof of the house closest to the structure. Rachel and two other activists began interfering with the other bulldozer, which was attempting to destroy grass and other plants on what used to be farmland. They stood and sat in its path, and though it would drive very close to them, and even move the earth on which they were sitting, it always stopped in time to avoid injuring them. After about 10 minutes, both bulldozers gave up on their work and withdrew to the boarder, and parked to face the houses, one on each side of the tank. I stayed on the roof, as the rest of the activists gathered to face the military machinery, and held an “International Solidarity Movement” banner, while Rachel shouted at them with a megaphone. Soldiers in the tank yelled obscenities at us, and told us to leave. They fired a few warning shots at the ground, and then fired a teargas canister. The wind blew the gas east of us, and never came close to a single activist. After a few more minutes of this face off, the bulldozers began driving east together on the boarder strip, and we thought they might have given up. Just in case, five of the activists walked on the Palestinian land, and followed the bulldozers. The other activist and I came down out of our houses. He joined the others, and I joined Rachel who had stayed with the tank in order to speak to the soldiers over the megaphone. They requested that she approach the tank, but she refused due their rude and aggressive behavior.

15:00-16:00

We noticed that the bulldozers had incurred back onto Palestinian land, and the six activists were opposing them, so we left the tank to join them. During this round of opposition, one bulldozer pushed Will, an American activist, up against a pile of barbed wire. Fortunately, the bulldozer stopped and withdrew just in time to avoid injuring him seriously, but we had to dig him out of the rubble, and unhook his clothing from the wire. The tank approached to see if he was ok. One soldier stuck his head out of the tank to see, and he looked quite shocked and dumbfounded, but said nothing.

16:00-16:45

We climbed onto some already damaged structures that were threatened, and kept the bulldozers from incurring any further onto Palestinian land. The bulldozer drivers began waving at us, making faces, laughing, and shouting what sounded like lewd comments. One even removed his helmet and posed for a picture, which unfortunately didn’t turn out.

16:45-17:00

One bulldozer, serial number 949623, began to work near the house of a physician who is a friend of ours, and in whose house Rachel and other activists often stayed. While we occupied the other structures directly west (the closest was less than 5 meters away and the furthest was less than 25 meters away), Rachel sat down in the pathway of the bulldozer. I was elevated about 2 meters above the ground, and had a clear view of the action happening about 20 meters away. Still wearing her fluorescent jacket, she sat down at least 15 meters in front of the bulldozer, and began waving her arms and shouting, just as activists had successfully done dozens of times that day. The bulldozer continued driving forward headed straight for Rachel. When it got so close that it was moving the earth beneath her, she climbed onto the pile of rubble being pushed by the bulldozer. She got so high onto it that she was at eye-level with the cab of the bulldozer. Her head and upper torso were above the bulldozer’s blade, and the bulldozer driver and co-operator could clearly see her. Despite this, he continued forward, which pulled her legs into the pile of rubble, and pulled her down out of view of the diver. If he’d stopped at this point, he may have only broken her legs, but he continued forward, which pulled her underneath the bulldozer. We ran towards him, and waved our arms and shouted, one activist with the megaphone. But the bulldozer driver continued forward, until Rachel was underneath the central section of the bulldozer. At this point, it was more than clear that she was nowhere but underneath the bulldozer, there was simply nowhere else she could have been, as she had not appeared on either side of the bulldozer, and could not have stayed in front of it that long without being crushed. Despite the obviousness of her position, the bulldozer began to reverse, without lifting its blade, and drug the blade over her body again. He continued to reverse until he was on the boarder strip, about 100 meters away, and l

The doctor came out and suggested that we move her, but it was clear that we could not. He used cotton swabs to dab some of the blood coming from her face.

17:00-17:15

The ambulance arrived. The Palestinian paramedics risked their lives to come out onto the boarder strip and put her onto a stretcher. We worked as human shields for them, and tried to make it difficult for the tank to fire at the ambulance workers as they have at many others in the past. While the paramedics loaded her onto a stretcher, one activist suggested that I get a good picture that clearly showed the serial number of the bulldozer responsible. I walked all the way out to the boarder strip, passed the tank, and began photographing the bulldozer. The tank soldier hollered something at me, and the bulldozer began driving in such a way as to prevent me from seeing the side of the bulldozer that displayed the serial number, or the side windows from which one might see the drivers. Despite their clever maneuvering, I managed to get several pictures of the serial number, but the tinted windows on the machine did not allow me to get a decent photo of the driver. By the time I’d finished, the paramedics were carrying Rachel on a stretcher to the ambulance. She was still breathing at this point, and her eyes were open, but she was clearly in a great deal of pain. Four activists piled into the ambulance with Rachel and the paramedics and were rushed to Al Negar Hospital. She was brought directly to the emergency room, and was in there when I arrived in a taxi.

17:20

She was pronounced dead and was wheeled out of the emergency room with a white sheet covering her head.

 

“It’s over.” Said Mohamed with tears in his eyes. He was a close Palestinian friend of hers and mine, and a trusted member of our group. I couldn’t believe it. It was so unreal. There was a part of me that couldn’t accept that she was gone. It had all happened so fast, I was in complete shock. I became less emotional than I’d been since the incident. I was just dumbfounded. As others began to cry, I joined in, and was on international television being comforted by the before-mentioned Mohamed. But I have yet to even come close to expressing the emotion that is built up inside me.

I’m still having trouble accepting that it’s real. I keep remembering small things about her, like that she liked juice, and used to wear this ridiculous pink jump suit that was given to her by a Palestinian woman. I’ve started smoking cigarettes since her death, and I’m constantly telling the story of how Rachel had quit smoking for a year before coming to Rafah, but started again the night she arrived, while she stayed in a tent along the boarder that came under heavy tank fire. One of the bullets being fired around the tent in attempts to frighten them actually hit the top of the tent. She’s smoked ever since, and how I wish that she’d lived long enough to die of lung cancer. Perhaps now I will.

Few activists actually come to Palestine planning to come to Rafah. In fact, many have to be talked into it, as the West Bank has gotten so much more publicity. But Rachel had heard about Rafah from a good friend of hers who’d spent time here a few months ago, and he told her about how neglected Rafah is by the world, and by the activist community. She was also aware of how dangerous Rafah is. In fact, more people have been killed per-capita in Rafah than any other place in Palestine. So not only is it the most dangerous place, but it is also considered the poorest city in all of Palestine, a country considered one of the poorest in the world. Rafah is one of the poorest and most dangerous places in the world, and Rachel made a B-line straight for it.

Rachel and I actually went to the same college but were only acquaintances, so I about flipped when I got a random email from her telling me that she is coming to Palestine and planning to come directly to Rafah. The coincidence was incredible, plus I was excited to have another activist joining us for the long-term, especially one with her kind of dedication and initiative.

Rachel planned to stay in Rafah for at least four months, maybe more, in order to set up a sister-city relationship with her hometown of Olympia, WA. Olympia has several relationships of this kind, and they basically consist of a relationship between the people and institutions of each city. Schools, hospitals, governments, businesses, and many individuals provide services for and interactions between the two sisters. She made dozens of contacts with individuals and organizations in the Rafah community, and had an eventual goal of bringing groups of Olympians to Rafah, and maybe even someday groups of Rafians to Olympia. It was a beautiful dream, one I intend on attempting to continue.

That type of project is representative of Rachel’s personality. She had an incredible amount of initiative, and was willing and able to invent and carry through all kinds creative and challenging projects. I had the privilege of meeting her during one of these such projects. Olympia has this fabulous event called “Procession of the Species”, an annual parade featuring community members of all ages, races, classes and political affiliations. Each participant constructs a costume or a puppet of any shape, size, or color that represents a particular species, i.e. plants and animals. In April of 2002, during the Afghanistan war, Rachel decided to organize a group of people to create and dress as doves, in symbolic protest of this and all wars. She made signs, called people, sent out numerous emails, and set up workshops for people to coordinate their efforts. I had experience making large backpack puppets, and other large and mobile structures, so she found me and asked for my help; I agreed, of course. I found her incredibly passionate and organized, as well as a lot of fun and remarkably creative. She was responsible for over 30 doves in that parade, including one that was over 12 feet tall, and a huge one on a bicycle. Her message was clear, and creatively expressed.

This is more than representative of her personality and style of organizing. I can’t get over how much fun she was. She could be totally spontaneous and random at times, and her sarcasm always brought a laugh. She truly made a huge impact on the Rafah community in the seven weeks that she was here. I can’t tell you how many people have come to her funeral ceremony expressing their deep sadness. I recognize so many of them as frequent visitors of hers, and people whom she loved and trusted. She especially had important relationships with the children of Rafah. It was not uncommon at all to have a few small boys show up at our office to visit, and she’d be ready with soda or candy, and sometimes join them for quick game of football (soccer). They loved her dearly, and she cherished them endlessly.

She had a relatively close relationship with the physician whose house she died protecting. She especially liked his wife and children, and truly thought of them as family. She slept in his house many nights, and it does not surprise me that she would give her life to defend this family’s only home and possessions.

Rachel stayed in a few other threatened Palestinian homes as well, and quickly developed close relationships with these people. They would constantly request that she stay at their home, and would feel sad if she was away for too long. We sleep in many houses along the boarder that are threatened with demolition. Israel has already demolished over 700 homes in Rafah, as they try and create a 100-meter perimeter between the houses and the 12-meter high and 8-meter deep steel wall currently under construction along the Egyptian boarder. Israeli soldiers currently patrol the boarder with tanks, and frequently shoot into the streets and houses still standing along the boarder. Much of this shooting is random, and not in response to resistance fire. We place large banners on the houses and in the communities in which we stay, and we hope that this deters the blanket fire, as well as demolition. When necessary, we use lights, florescent and reflective gear, and megaphones to alert them of our presence.

Rachel also helped organize a demonstration in Rafah in solidarity with the people of Iraq. It took place on the international day of action in March, and attracted several hundred Palestinians, despite some bad weather. She made a banner that said, “No War on Iraq, No War on Rafah”.

She was active in the before-mentioned human-shield work for civilian Palestinian workers. Especially at the two biggest water wells in Rafah, which were recently destroyed by Israel. She’d sometimes stay all day with the water workers as they rebuilt these wells, even when no tank was near. She was ready to protect them if a threat did come along.

I am deeply saddened at the loss of a good friend, and a brilliant activist. I am outraged that these soldiers have murdered my friend, as they have murdered thousands of Palestinian civilians. I am terrified at what they will do to internationals and other dissenting voices in the future. I now feel how every Palestinian family must feel. I am determined to continue to resist this brutal occupation, and have learned from the courage and dedication that Rachel displayed.

I will always remember Rachel’s unmoving dedication to this cause, that eventually led to her death.

We are unsure about what this means for us now. I believe that the way the world reacts to this event will determine the effectiveness of our work in the future. If Israel learns that they can kill internationals with impunity, then we will be useless as human shields. However, if Israel receives enough international pressure, this tragedy could make our work more effective. Especially because now Israel knows that we will not move, and that we will take risks in order to peacefully resist their brutal occupation. None of us are planning to leave, indeed we will continue our work in Rafah, with more energy and support than ever.

I don’t expect much of a reaction from the United States Government. The D9 bulldozer that killed her was designed and built by Caterpillar, and American-based Multinational Corporation. Plus, one fourth of all U.S. foreign aid goes to Israel, mainly in military assistance. Israel, a fairly wealthy and developed nation, gets more than the entire continent of Africa. Indeed, they get more money than any single U.S. state. Israeli soldiers shoot at Palestinians with American M16s, and fire missiles at their homes with American Apache Helicopters and F16 fighter planes. The U.S. embassy knew that we were being threatened, but took no action. I suspect that the reaction will be similar in the future, but hopefully they will at least make an effort to tell the Israelis that we are indeed U.S. citizens, and that they should try to guarantee our safety, as we attempt to guarantee the safety of Palestinians. I imagine that the U.S. Government will speak regrettably about the incident, but will try and defend Israel, and conclude that it was a tragic accident caused by reckless and irresponsible youths. Supposedly there is an investigation underway, but no investigator has contacted us, or been to visit the sight, which has been severely desecrated and destroyed by the Israeli Army. The destruction of evidence is a blatant sign of guilt.

To commemorate Rachel’s death, we have stuck with the Palestinian tradition of a three-day ceremony, started by a popular demonstration and march and followed by all-day grieving periods including numerous visits by community members. Black coffee and dates are served in the spirit of the nomadic tradition. Chairs are set up in a line, and the family (us in this case) sit in them and shake hands with lines of Palestinians that come to express their condolences. Underneath a large tent there are chairs in which visitors may sit and talk. Beautiful Arabic music is played over a loud speaker, along with comments and speeches about the deceased. All around, signs and banners are hung, along with many copies of her “Shahid Poster”. Palestinians always design a poster for each shahid (martyr) that displays the shahid’s picture and words about them. Thousands of copies have been made, posted and distributed all around Rafah. We especially placed them in areas Rachel frequented, such as the internet café in which she sometimes spent all night. On the top of the poster we printed it says, “Rachel, she came to stop the tanks.” It is from a quote we found in her journal about an Italian activist that was once here.

The Palestinians have been incredibly supportive as they are quite used to this. We all only hope that her death will bring the world’s attention to the brutal and senseless violence that this occupation represents. The fact that one American peace activist was killed should only show how frequently Israeli soldiers kill unarmed civilians. It especially should not be forgotten that a young Palestinian man was killed in Tele Sulton, a different area of Rafah, around the same time as Rachel. He happened to be walking in the street when a tank shot blanket fire into the area. Somehow his death, along with those of thousands of innocent Palestinian men, women, and children goes overlooked.

“You’re one of us now.” Some Palestinians have said to me. “You were a foreigner before, but now you know what it is to be Palestinian.” Spray painted on a wall near our apartment, is “Rachel Corrie, an American citizen with Palestinian blood.” That says it all.


3/22/2003

A Break

So, I'm in Haifa now, taking a break from the madness.

I found myself on stress overload, and realized that it would be much better for the group if I rejuvenated myself and then returned. This necessity became clear to me when we were brought to a pizza restaurant after a demonstration in Gaza City, and a few people didn't get their orders and we needed to leave to have a meeting about the future of ISM Rafah. I somehow took on the task of working it out, and became incredibly stressed and tense and ended up yelling at some Palestinian restaurant workers and leaving the building. I knew I needed a break, so here I am.

Laura, Shannon's best friend from Grinnell has become one of my closest friends. She has been doing peace work in Israel for the past few months, as well as learning more about her Jewish identity. She had visited me in Rafah and I had visited her in Haifa, and we have become close partners from our respective sides. She came down to Rafah at my request on Tuesday, and has been instrumental in my healing process. She could not be more nurturing and understanding, and knows me well enough to know what I need even when I do not. I am here with her now, and am really getting some good rest. Today we hung out on the beach all day, playing in the water and the sand, playing guitar and singing, sketching and generally taking it easy in the sun. We talk a lot, mainly babbling about relatively unimportant things, or discussing religion and politics from our respective perspectives. I'm not allowed to talk about the future of Rafah or anything stressful, but I do talk a lot of random memories of Rachel, and the event that killed her. I've been finding some emotion and dealing with it, but mainly I've been letting the stress and tension out of my head and body, sleeping and relaxing.

I do have a gas mask, they issue them to tourists. Weird coming to relax in a place threatened by conventional and chemical warfare. The mood is still relaxed however, scary how used to this kind of threat Israel is. The precautions are so surreal, people waiting in lines for their government-issued gas mask, with the little instruction guide on how to use it. They're issued in these small cardboard boxes with plastic soldier straps. When I first got to Haifa, I though everyone was selling cookies or something. I have yet to fully understand the significance of these boxes one out of every 4 people are carrying.

Sylvia, The Citizen Services Chief of the US Embassy in Israel is my new best friend. I have her personal cell phone number, and she has committed to working more closely with me in the future. She is putting me in contact with a US consulate that goes to Gaza frequently, a nice black woman who speaks Arabic and is pro-Palestinian. She has direct contacts with the military, and has promised that she'll start using them. I hope to work more closely with the US Embassy to put pressure on Israel to take more care of civilians, international and Palestinian. The US Govt. should have some serious weight with Israel, as they are pretty much responsible for its existence and security. I don't know how sincere Sylvia is, I know they must be pretty embarrassed after all this, especially because we called them before it happened. But she did tell me "off the record", that she supports what I'm doing and that I should keep doing it, while she does what she can to ensure my safety. We will only have to see what weight she has, and how she's willing to use it. She did help me get a gas mask though.

The media frenzy has died down a lot, as our accounts are all out there and most of the media attention is being focused elsewhere in the world, at various vigils, demonstrations, and legal developments surrounding the case. But we're still getting specialty stuff. Several documentary makers, including an Israeli 60 Minutes style channel have come down to Rafah. I'm impressed at the bravery of Israeli journalists who've actually come to Rafah. They all have some fake country they're from, and are very careful. One named Billi from Ma’arev, a major paper, who also has her own TV show, actually spent the entire day with us, and stayed in a threatened house with Laura and I. Good ole Abu Jamile's, the guy who grows his own food, has amazing kids, speaks Hebrew and is all about peace and co-existence. His house also happens to be one of the most threatened in Rafah, and is subject to constant gunfire almost all night. She was terrified, but stuck through it, and was remarkably impressed with his genuine sincerity and love. I took three roles of film for her of the family and other things, pictures that may be published. You should be proud of me Amy, I've become a world-famous photographer. Billi ended up writing the family a check for 2000 shekels so that they can move. Abu Jamile agreed to find another place to sleep, but will still live in his house during the day. So we will protect his house at night.

So, chillin I am. If you want to call me please wait until Monday afternoon. I didn't take my phone anyway. Please stay on your local newspapers, and any actual media events that can be planned are encouraged. I've heard of a congressional bill being introduced by Rachel's congressmen, calling for an independent investigation and other ways to lesson the Israeli threat to civilians. Please write to your congresspeople to support this bill and other legislation calling for conditional funding of Israel. Finally, the anti-Caterpillar campaign must be strengthened. The company needs to know that they have become a weapons manufacturer, and will not be le